This year for my father's 80th birthday he wanted to visit Glacier National Park. I always wanted to visit Montana. We stayed in Big Mountain right outside Whitefish, Montana, which is a ski resort and has a ton of fun activities to do during the summer. Whitefish is also a fun and cute little town, it is however one hour away from West Glacier's Entrance. I would probably split up my time next time between Whitefish and then staying at Many Glacier Lodge on the East side of Glacier National Park, and honestly my favorite area of the park.
Many Glacier Lodge
Our very first night there we saw three bears.
Day 1
The first full day we drove to Going-To--The-Sun-Road. We stopped by the McDonald Lodge and skipped some rock and took the Boat Tour. I would skip this one to be honest. But a quick visit to the Lodge is worth it. It is pretty view of the lake though you can get this view at a few stops before the Lodge.
We then continued along the road and our next stop was McDonald Falls. There’s a generously-sized pullout area for parking, and you can reach the viewing platform by a small set of stairs. You can also view the falls on an easy hike on the other side which we did on another day. You can also ride along the Upper McDonald Creek on horseback, which I would recommend and heard it is one of the more scenic horseback riding tours. But if you want just a quick stop this little pull out is worth the stop.
On our way up to the Logan Pass Visitor Center where we were going to do our hike for the day we saw the famous Weeping Wall. In August it was more of a tearing wall.
The Logan Pass Visitors Center is the highest point of the Going-To-The-Sun Road, sitting at 6,647 feet in elevation. Here, you’ll also cross over the continental divide! At Logan Pass, we got the kid's their Junior Ranger Books. It is their favorite thing when we visit a national park to complete a book and get sworn in as a junior ranger. Don't miss out they learn so much completing the books about the park they are in.
At Logan Pass we hiked Hidden Lake Overlook (a bit over 3 miles). This is a moderate hike as the first half is all uphill and at an elevation you are not used to. But it truly is beautiful. Though we did not see any wildlife aside from ground squirrels and chipmunks people do see bighorn sheep, mountain goats, marmots, and even wolverines. If it is cloudy like it was for us the clouds move fast and the view changes from moment to moment so do not let a few clouds discourage you.
We celebrated my dad's birthday dinner at Cafe Kandhar and for a foodie it was one of the better meals we had on our stay in Montana. The combinations were creative and delicious. The halibut lox and pork belly were two of my favorites.
Day 2
The next day we hiked Avalanche Lake in West Glacier. This was one of my favorite hikes in the park. It was beautiful. This was also a moderate hike with a lot of complaining from my 8 year old the 2.5 miles or so up the hill, but worth every minute.
The beginning trail Trail of Cedars is an easy look that anyone can do and I would also recommend this trail even if you do not hike uphill to Avalanche Lake. This nature loop is wheelchair accessible and family-friendly, with an incredibly flat and wide trail on one side and a boardwalk amongst the cedars on the other.Notable trees along the path are Western Red Cedar, Black Cottonwood, and Western Hemlock. Some of them are more than 500 years old!
On the trail up to Avalanche Lake we even saw a fox. I was so excited to see some wild life.
Day 3
The next day we had a horseback riding tour out of Agpar corral in order to see the most wildlife. We did see quite a few deer and bucks. But, the tour guide did tell us the ride at Upper McDonald Creek was much more scenic. So if you are booking a horse riding tour check that one out.
After the horseback ride we went on a hike at Upper McDonald Creek. It was a nice easy 5 mile hike along the creek. We took our lunch and had a picnic along the creek. That night we had dinner at Abruzzo Kitchen in Whitefish. The elk tartare was my favorite dish there.
Day 4
The Next day we drove the entirety of Going-To-The-Sun Road with the intention to hike Many Glacier. Unfortunately there was some serious construction and we stood at a standstill for over 40 minutes and my crew could not hang so we turned around and headed to Two Medicine instead. Two Medicine was also beautiful. It reminded me a bit of Bariloche, Argentina.
We did a nature walk out to a waterfall at Two Medicine as the ride to the East Side of Glacier is a long haul from Whitefish, which is why I recommend dividing your stay. On our way we did stop and hike Baring Falls another 1 mile pretty easy hike right when you reach St. Mary's Lake.
We took the way around outside of the park back to Whitefish and stopped by a cute shop in one of the towns called The Spiral Spoon. They hand carve gorgeous wooden spoons. The lady that works there was lovely and my kids loved speaking with her and she answered there million questions. The ceiling was spectacular with all these wooden spoons hanging on top. I loved it being a cook and all.
From there we couldn't miss the Whitefish Farmer's Market. Sadly by the time we got there an hour before closing most of the stands were empty. But there was a line up of food trucks and music and that was great. We grabbed a few tastes the kids did a few gymnastic tricks, we ate a few bites and chilled to some music. During the summer every Tuesday the Whitefish market is from 5:00 to 7:30.
Day 5
The next day we stayed and hung out and enjoyed what Big Mountain had to offer. We went on the obstacle course, rode the Alpine slide, and took the chair lift all the way up for the view.
We then went down into town to shop the stores and galleries in Whitefish. We had lunch at Whitefish Lake Lodge and my kids drove their electric motor boats in the lake. It was a relaxing and fun day, with little driving. This was probably one of my kids favorite days.
Day 6
The next day we had tickets for a hike and boat tour on St. Mary's Lake on the East Side of Glacier. So we again drove all the way to the other side of the park on Going-To-The-Sun-Road. On the way we did see a moose right on the side of the road eating algae in the creek. This is not very common in West Glacier.
Did you know that moose have transparent eyelids, so that they can see underwater? I would recommend the hike and boat tours. It makes the hikes shorter and the tour at St. Mary's was beautiful. I wish we had had time for the tour and hike at Many Glaciers but sadly we did not. From the boat we hiked to St. Mary's Falls. This is a stunning 35 feet tall three tier drop waterfall. St Mary Falls hike is one of the most popular waterfalls trails in Glacier National Park, however when we went we did not see many people outside of those on our boat. Once you reach the viewing area, there’s a bridge with a great view of the falls, a place to sit for a break, and some afternoon shade for a welcome rest.
Since we hit so much traffic last time I convinced our group to try Many Glaciers one more time, even though it was late at least to check out the lodge and it was a good thing we did not only was dinner there decent, but we saw a grizzly bear on our way in as well as mountain goat and a beaver in the lake in front of the lodge. So much wildlife on this side of the park.
This was truly one of my favorite areas of the park. This was one of my favorite part of the park and I was sad we did not have more time to explore it. If I had had more time I would have done the following:
Option 1: From the Many Glacier Lodge, you can board one of the park’s historic wooden boats for a tour of both Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine. Enjoy the incredibly blue glacial water, learn about the park’s natural history from the boat captain, and take in the incredible view of the Many Glacier valley without lacing up your hiking boots. See Lake Josephine During Sunrise: Lake Josephine is a beautiful lake in the Many Glacier Area, known for its incredible sunrise views. You can recognize this lake by the iconic Morning Eagle ferry boat docked on the shore and Mount Gould dead center in the background.
Option 2: Hike To Grinnell Glacier: Grinnell Glacier Hike is an 11.28-mile out-and-back trail that will take you by three different lakes (Lake Josephine, Grinnell Lake, and Upper Grinnell Lake) and a potential off-trail to see Hidden Falls. Don’t leave the Many Glacier areas of the park without taking in one of the most stunning hikes in the park. There’s a boat shuttle that takes you across Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine that shaves 4 miles off the hike, bringing the total round-trip mileage to 7.6 miles. Upon getting to the glacier, take in the views of one of the last remaining glaciers in Glacier National Park, and if you’re brave enough, take the polar plunge whilst surrounded by icebergs!
Option 3: Lake Josephine, a beautiful turquoise mirror cradled by tall mountains. Turn left to continue through the forest along the southeast side of the lake on South Shore Josephine Lake Trail, or head straight to connect to North Shore Josephine Lake Trail along the northwest side where shade is minimal, the elevation change is greater, and views of the lake are grander. Both routes are enjoyable, so hike in on one trail and out on the other. The directions along South Shore Josephine Lake Trail are the simplest. Turn left at the junction near the bridge at the south end of Swiftcurrent Lake. Cross through the forest, making an obvious right turn after 0.18 miles. Go straight through a junction with Piegan Pass Trail before reaching the shore of Lake Josephine, 1 1/3 miles from the start. Continue through the woods along the lake for 0.9 miles, making another clear right turn before passing a boathouse at the south end of the lake. When you reach the merger with the North Shore Trail, stay to the left and continue toward Grinnell Lake. Three-quarters of a mile past the boathouse on the north end of Lake Josephine, you will cross the first of two junctions with Grinnell Glacier Trail. This arduous track climbs 1,500 feet to the glacier above Grinnell Lake. North Shore Josephine Lake Trail sticks with the lake, curling through wetlands on the south end to rejoin the other trail to Grinnell Lake. Both routes around Lake Josephine are similar in length. South Shore Josephine Lake Trail is 1.75 miles long, while North Shore Josephine Lake Trail is 1.85 miles long. Only one trail connects Lake Josephine to Grinnell Lake. Along the way, you will pass a pair of pit toilets (for those who forgot to go at the hotel). Shortly thereafter, arrive at a spur trail to Hidden Falls Overlook, 0.85 miles from the junction at the south end of Lake Josephine. Here you may turn left and ascend about fifty feet over less than a tenth of a mile to a viewpoint where a stream gushes through a rocky trough. The view from the overlook of the forty-foot waterfall is worth the brief detour. Back on the main trail, cross a short seasonal suspension bridge to reach the other side of the creek below Hidden Falls. The trail transforms into a walkway of wooden planks over the last 1/3 of a mile as you cross a damp forest full of meandering streams that leads to a gravel beach on the shore of Grinnell Lake. Back on the main trail, cross a short seasonal suspension bridge to reach the other side of the creek below Hidden Falls. The trail transforms into a walkway of wooden planks over the last 1/3 of a mile as you cross a damp forest full of meandering streams that leads to a gravel beach on the shore of Grinnell Lake.
Option 4: Fishercap Lake is such an easy hike! It’s more of a nice walk, actually. Leaving from the parking lot in front of the Swiftcurrent Inn, you simply take the low trail, which is the flattest path, and then stroll through the aspen forest for a few minutes. There’s a wee little sign to direct you down a small hill (you turn left to follow the trail) and then you’re there.
This is a great hike to get kids excited about more adventures. It’s quick, easy and pretty. The lake is beautiful and the habitat is ideal for moose.
Option 5: Red Rock Falls 3.5 Miles This trail starts near the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn and passes Fishercap Lake and Redrock Lake on the way to the falls. This is one of the best trails in the park to spot moose. Take the short walk from the trail down to the water of both lakes to find baby and mama moose feeding in the water.
Day 7
The next day the kids wanted to zipline so we went to Glacier zipline because my son did not weigh the 60 pounds that he needed to weigh to do the zipline course at Big Mountain, which I have heard is the longest and higher course in the area. However, we loved Glacier zipline and the tour guides were a fun couple that made the experience great. This was probably my kids favorite day.
We then went and explored Big Fork. It was a very small town with a few art galleries near Flathead Lake. On the way we got some delicious cherries. If it is cherry season get cherries! Overall it was a great trip. We took it easy having a larger group in tow, kids and an 80 year old but we saw and did a lot. I was just excited to see so much wildlife. Till next time Montana.
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